Setting Up a New Shower Unit
An effective shower setup requires careful planning and a lot of work. In most cases, you will need to do 3 types of tasks: framing walls, installing the plumbing, and completing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you need to select the kind of shower that you want to set up. It is important to ascertain whether the picked shower is capable of handling certain systems and can control a safe level of water through the boiler. Many shower units nowadays are designed to be flexible to various water pressures (such as saved warm water and cold mains).
It is also essential to consider the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drain for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The tube and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be connected to the bath tap according to your requirement, and the water temperature can be changed via the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and incredibly easy to set up. However, although the tube connection is basic, it is quickly removed. In addition, it is troublesome to adjust the temperature level.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose and spray of this type of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is a very inexpensive alternative and no additional pipes is included. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers likewise struggle with inconvenient temperature level control alternatives.
Manual Mixer: The tube and spray of a manual mixer shower unit are a part of the wall unit and the cold and hot water materials are linked to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a variety of knobs (in more costly showers). Although temperature control is a lot easier in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the previously pointed out mixers. They likewise require additional pipes of cold and hot supply of water pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose and spray of this shower type belong of the wall system and the hot and cold water products are linked to a single valve here too. It is total with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to prevent it from ending up being too hot. One of the biggest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes practical temperature control. Nevertheless, it is the most costly of the different mixer choices.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single system including an effective electrical pump that is capable of altering both the water pressure and temperature. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is water system from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the adjustment of both pressure and temperature easy. On the other hand, it disagrees for water heated up straight by the shower or where the water is supplied by a mix boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats up the water electrically. It is essential to note that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure requires to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit allows the temperature and pressure to be changed via a knob. Designs with temperature stabilisers are much better as they remain unaffected by other taps in other places in use within the home. A significant disadvantage of electrical showers is that the control knob just permits the choice of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a greater pressure. This is problematic in the winter when the spray is typically weak and the mains water is cooler. Nevertheless, this problem is taken on in some models which are offered with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the kind of shower you want to install, the shower head must either be suited order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it needs to have a check valve.
Use the instruction guide offered with the shower unit to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will provide the water to the shower system, it is necessary to cut off the water system. In order to secure the pipelines, they should be given a water resistant covering and also fitted with isolating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the total look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the primary shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water (This might require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water supply and test the pipes for any leaks, as some may need tightening.
If you are setting up an electrical shower, keep in mind to switch off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. As soon as these connections have been made (there need to be assistance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower
The cold water reservoir can be raised to a higher height (often as low as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden assistance beneath it-- perhaps composed of struts and blockboards. If you choose this option, the primary and distribution pipes will also need to be raised to satisfy the new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is selected, it must be linked into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm diameter supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as short and straight as possible so regarding preserve optimal pressure and minimise heat loss. In addition, by reducing the use of elbows for pipeline corners, you can reduce the resistance in the circulation of the water system. You can attain this by bending the pipelines instead.
Most Common Mistakes
affordable plumber Canberra # Breaching or overlooking regional code restrictions.
# Using pipes that are too small.
# Connecting copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.
# Not using tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your components when installing them.
# Not setting up an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to set up the shutoff valves onto after the ended up wall is in place.
# Not correctly lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leakage.)
# When turning the water back on in your home, constantly run the outside hose pipe valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can cause issues in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.